Vanished Dublin: Royal Canal Harbour

royal-canal-harbour-1825

Someone once told me water used to come almost right up to the door of the King’s Inns.  I didn’t believe them but it was true.   The water was canal water from the Broadstone Harbour of the Royal Canal onto which the Inns fronted as shown above.

For a short but glorious period of time one of the main arteries of commerce in Ireland, the Royal, as it was known, linked Dublin and the North Midlands.  There was a spur from the Canal to the Liffey at Royal Canal Docks but the Broadstone, with its Royal Canal Hotel, was the original intended main terminus.

When the construction of Broadstone Harbour (completed ten years later) started in 1796 that particular part of North Dublin was a thriving centre of industry, with numerous shops, workhouses, pentitentiaries, lunatic asylums and the Linen Hall mentioned in a previous post (all of which required transport) close by.  In fact at one point it was even considered situating the proposed harbour at Bolton St to be closer to the Linen Hall.

Broadstone Harbour became even busier in 1845 when the Royal Canal was purchased by the Midland and Great Western Railway Company as part of its scheme to run trains from Dublin to the West.  A flashy neo-Egyptian railway station serving Galway, Westport and Castlebar was erected opposite the King’s Inns, with a ingeniously constructed pontoon bridge allowing passengers to cross from one side of the harbour to the other.

Alas, in this very building, with its touches of Karnak and Luxor, lay the seeds of the harbour’s inglorious ending; with the railway, there was no longer the same need for canal transport and eventually in 1877 Spencer Dock replaced Broadstone as the main Canal terminus and the watery harbour was filled in to become the station forecourt, a roadway and (in front of the King’s Inns) a small park.

midland railway poster

Meanwhile the Broadstone railway line, with its special Fourth Class wagons for cattle and migrant workers and, at the other end of the scale, its ‘ladies only’ carriages for unaccompanied nervy gentlewomen, proved immensely profitable for the Midland and Great Western.  In 1856 the Broadstone was the venue for the Irish equivalent of the Great Train Robbery when a cashier was found murdered in his office with the day’s takings absent; as with the Great Train Robbery, no one was ever brought to justice.

There were lots of railway stations in Dublin, all owned by different companies, and the rivalry between them intense – even the location of a new junction could lead to vicious infighting.   All this ended when the Midland and Great Western Railway Company joined with other railways to form the Great Southern Railway in 1924.   A single railway company made a plethora of railway stations, no matter how swankily built, superfluous and the last train from Broadstone left in 1937.  The station itself (complete with haunted room the site of the 1856 murder) still stands, purposeless and bereft, looking out on the busy road and small, dank, rather sunken park which are all that remains of the beautiful watery space below.

brocas

More about the Broadstone Harbour as it was, here and here.   Pictures of the Broadstone station when first erected and in its spooky modern incarnation, here and here.  Photo of the King’s Inns and park today (taken from approx. the middle of where the harbour used to be) here.   Relevant Ordnance Survey maps (for those who are interested) here.

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The sibling of daedalus
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11 Responses to Vanished Dublin: Royal Canal Harbour

  1. El Sido says:

    What a lovely piece. I’m fascinated by canal and railway infrastructure. If you look round the barracks in Athlone. You can see abandoned railway sidings and sheds along with a forgotten platform. There’s a now filled in canal cutting, for bringing in goods, off the Shannon.

    When I worked in Manchester, in Trafford Park, I was trying to have a serious conversation with some chap about curtains (or some such crap). His back was turned to a small picture window. And this massive sea going ship was going past on the ship canal. Needless to say I wasn’t listening to a word he was saying. I had to sort of piece it together the day after on the telephone.

  2. maurice says:

    Fascinating history, deftly unearthed and beautifully written, as always. I find it hard to believe an unusued building as large as a railway station, sited in the center of a major city, would sit vacant for 75 years? Why hasn’t it been torn down or repurposed (if protected by preservation statues)? That’s the main question this piece leaves in my mind.

  3. photoncourier says:

    A beautiful travel poster!

    El Sido…there was a pretty good novel, a trilogy IIRC, about the canal-building era in Britain. Can’t remember the title right off, but might think of it.

    I live just a couple of miles from the Chesapeake & Ohio canal, built starting in 1828 by a company descending from one founded by George Washington for that purpose. The canal is now a national park…a very long, narrow one, extending about 180 miles (only small stretches are navigable today.)

    In the small museum near Great Falls, I saw a video of a 1917 trip on the canal, which is also available on the Internet:

  4. photoncourier says:

    I *think* the trilogy I mentioned was The Navigators, by Anthony Burton.

    • El Sido says:

      How sad that only small sections of the Chesapeake & Ohio canal are now navigable. I speak from experience. Often when I visit the UK I stop over on an old friends narrow boat. You can get a radically different perspective and interpretation of a place merely by observing it from a waterway.

  5. wonderful piece about an amazing yet now invisible piece of Dublin history and also,(you’re dead right to say) an almost entirely forgotten piece too. I’ve written and researched a bit on this too, fascinated by it. I smiled when you wrote “I didn’t believe it at first” because I know exactly what you mean, it seems so unlikely that there ever could have been a big harbour so high up in Dublin, totally counter-intuitive really. Anyway, great piece, love the illustrations you found too, thanks for posting.

  6. sdaedalus says:

    Thanks guys! Not as much research as usual for this post as there is already quite a bit of information online on this, I really just collated it.

    One of my favourite dreams (not sure what Freud would have made of this!) is of water and fields within existing cities, which is why the pictures above fascinated me so much. Cities are ever-changing and I love the layers upon layers and the echoes of the past…

    King’s Inns always reminded me of the Portobello Hotel (shown in my other canal post ‘She Wore a Beautiful Dress’), but I couldn’t understand why… it turns out it was the looped railings in front, which must be a survival from the canal days. Anyway, glad you like it and will keep going with the Vanished Dublin posts…

  7. sdaedalus says:

    oops, Maurice, re. your query…. until the 1960s locomotives were stored there. It is now the headquarters of Bus Eireann, with part of it being used as a bus depot. From canal boats to railways to buses…

  8. John (London) says:

    IMO the Midland Grear Western Railway of Ireland and the Empire Marketing Board both had more interesting posters than the Folies Bergere.

    • sdaedalus says:

      The Irish railway posters are lovely (I think the railway companies competed to get the best artists!) Check out some of them at the links above. At some stage I will get them together for a post.

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